Hampstead Heath - Sandy Heath and midnight iris

Hampstead Heath is a woodland and grassland area located in north-west London. The Heath is covering 320 hectares and it takes approximately 3 hours to walk around its circumference. Within this large parkland is to be found 18 ponds. However, in this blog I focus on one pond, so small, that it is not included in the official count and does not have a name either.

Sandy Heath

Sandy Heath

The spring was slowly beginning in March and I first noticed it on the Heath when green blades of iris leaves started to shoot up near the pond (since March I visited this place many times and as I noticed a pair of ducks living here, I started to call it Two Ducks pond). This (Two Ducks) pond in Sandy Heath area is between Two Tree hill with its two 300 years old oaks and Constable pine which is the oldest pine tree on the whole Heath. As the name suggest the pine tree has already been here in the time when the famous landscape painter John Constable lived and worked in Hampstead in 1820’s. That was at the time when this part of Heath wasn’t woodland yet. An interesting fact also says that people who wanted to travel through this area had to pay toll at the Toll Gate House which is still standing next to Spaniard’s Inn pub and is now a listed building.

The underlying soil in this part of Heath is rich in Bagshot sand. This granular material was laid down in shallow coastal seas about 50 millions years ago and then slowly distributed by Bagshot river flowing from south-west England across Salisbury Plain to deposit thick river sands in London basin. The soil particularly suits growth of vegetation such as gorse, heather, birch and pine trees. Today there is a secondary woodland with great prevalence of oak, beech and hawthorn trees as well.

When Sir Thomas Maryon Wilson, the 8th baronet inherited most of the Heath from his deceased father (the 7th baronet) in 1821, he wanted to build on it but was frustrated by certain stipulations in his father’s will as well as local oppositions. His plans in building up estate with 28 villas was stopped by parliament that pronounced the project not in the public interest. The only materialized structure from his efforts on his land was the Viaduct built in 1840’s which is still standing in East Heath.

Instead of building on Sandy Heath he used the sand as a building material and was selling up to 30 carts a day to the Midland Railway for a new track out of London St Pancras. Due to the high iron content, the sand is not suitable for mortar making and therefore it was used only for railway or road building and later for filling in sandbags during two World Wars.

Woodland, full moon, Sandy Heath, Hampstead Heath, London.jpg

Sandy Heath - April full moon

Sandy Heath - May full moon and midnight runner

Sandy Heath - May full moon and midnight runner

I have been returning to Sandy Heath, now full of trees, day and night since the beginning of spring. During the day this area has been busy with people enjoying sunshine, walking their dogs and experiencing outdoors. In April I spotted six new-born ducklings in nearby bigger pond, jaybird bathing in smaller ponds and other animals such as rabbits, foxes, frogs, bats and immense quantity of birds and insect. I also came to photograph the (Two Ducks) pond during the April and May full moons. There was no breeze but the forest wasn’t silent. All sort of animal noises complemented the long exposures and the play of light and shadows caused by moonlight getting through the trees was something poetic to behold. In the second half of May the yellow water irises at (Two Ducks) pond were finally in bloom. The act of opening their flowers to insect pollinators don’t last long. Several days in and it was over. During this blooming time however, the yellow water iris produces a lot of nectar. In fact, according to survey done by AgriLand project in 2011-2012, researchers from Bristol University identified that of all flowers, yellow water iris (Iris pseudacerus) has second greatest nectar production per micro-gram of sugar per day in the UK (the greatest nectar production per day is by Himalayan balsam (Impatiens glandulifera) which is a non-native species in the UK).

The summertime is slowly approaching and as always in summer months few of these small ponds around here will be covered by a thin film of green algae. The ducks and other wildfowl will be floating in water creating lines on the surface behind them. Life on this patch will go on, and hopefully undisturbed.

Sandy Heath - midnight illuminated

Sandy Heath - midnight illuminated

Sandy Heath - iris flower (iris pseudacorus) at midnight

Sandy Heath - iris flower (iris pseudacorus) at midnight



The Journey to Scotland's distilleries

Experiencing various landscapes in Scotland is in most instances a very pleasing affair. Unless of course, extensive rain does not become too much to bear or the biting midges do not make your stay hell on Earth. If so, there is always a way how to make all these hardships disappear. In Scotland there is more than 120 active distilleries and most of them are open to visitors.


Oban distillery

Oban distillery

Whisky is inevitably most recognised product of Scotland and this fine spirit with its sheer variety of expressions has created a whole culture of appreciation that like wine spread all over the world. Whisky distilleries and their distinctive architecture are inherently linked in many peoples perception to Scottish landscape. The most recognizable feature of the distillery building may be its pagoda-like head on the top of kiln which was designed by architect Charles Chree Doig in 1889 and known for long time as “Doig Ventilator” (nowadays it is seldom in use for its original function but it is kept for its aesthetical value).

When I started to travel in Scotland as a young man I did not pay much attention to whiskies or distilleries themselves. The first distillery I have ever visited was The Ben Nevis distillery and that was after I climbed the mountain from which the distillery draws its name and so out of curiosity wanted to explore this connection. I was the only visitor there at the time and was taken around by the distillery manager himself. That was certainly before the whisky boom came around.

It came to me perhaps with maturity of age, like the whisky itself, that I started to appreciate the “uisge beatha” (scots Gaelic term for “water of life” and the term whisky has originally derived from) for what it is. I can recall one single event that has changed my attitude towards whisky completely. It was a whisky appreciation session which I was part of organised by my friend David some three years ago. He poured drams with whisky samples from all (at the time) active distilleries in Islay – a region known for its peated smoky whiskies. This tasting session was a revelation to me and it was also the time we started planning the Islay trip. We wanted to check out not only the island’s distilleries but also to encounter people who live here as well as to experience the surrounding landscape and the sea.

This trip has opened my eyes even more to whisky appreciation and since than I have visited over 25 different distilleries. After that many on the go, does it ever get boring? The facts about seemingly unbreakable malt mill (Porteus or Boby), distinctive shape of copper stills, angle of the lyne arms leading out of the stills (these contribute to whisky character) or percentage of Angel shares (whisky evaporation rate throughout the year) are often mentioned by the tour guides as their mantras. However, there is always something new, unique and surprising at every distillery – be it a distinctive production method, delivery and character of the tour guide or some other aspect of the local culture and history talked about. Since the first ever Visitor Centre opened by Glenfiddich in 1969 other distilleries followed the suit and began to welcome visitors in their grounds. Distilleries play essential parts in local economies – from barley growers, agricultural contractors, cooperages, glassware makers, hauliers to whisky book publishers. And on the top of the production of fine spirit these places have now created important cultural aspect that encourage tourism to the Scottish countryside. Most often I have visited distilleries with my friends so there is a great social facet to this experience as well as learning about local history and craft that has been part of Scotland for hundreds of years. After visiting many distilleries there are rather different details which you start paying attention to: like for example great view through very large windows across the Sound of Islay in the Stills room in Coal Ila distillery, free coffee in Laphroaig distillery in their cosy armchairs which was a lovely touch, great hospitality at Benromach or wonderful tour on Christmas Eve at Royal Lochnagar near the Balmoral Castle.

Sadly as the situation concerning the COVID-19 has escalated in the UK most distilleries will now be closed.

The International Whisky Day is being celebrated on the March 27th. Best to raise a glass and say: “Slàinte Mhath” which in Scots Gaelic means Good Health!


Ferry to Islay

Ferry to Islay

Arrival in Port Ellen, Islay

Arrival in Port Ellen, Islay

Lagavulin distillery, Islay

Lagavulin distillery, Islay

Talisker distillery, Isle of Skye

Talisker distillery, Isle of Skye

Ben Nevis at night

Ben Nevis at night

Tower ridge, Ben Nevis at night

Tower ridge, Ben Nevis at night

Ben Nevis distillery, Fort William

Ben Nevis distillery, Fort William

Ben Nevis distillery, Fort William

Ben Nevis distillery, Fort William

Glenkinchie distillery, East Lothian

Glenkinchie distillery, East Lothian

Glen Ord distillery, Black Isle

Glen Ord distillery, Black Isle

Glen Ord distillery, Black Isle

Glen Ord distillery, Black Isle

Glen Ord distillery, Black Isle

Glen Ord distillery, Black Isle

Balblair distillery, Ross-shire. One of the oldest distillery in Scotland founded in 1790

Balblair distillery, Ross-shire. One of the oldest distillery in Scotland founded in 1790

Old Pulteney distillery, Wick, Caithness

Old Pulteney distillery, Wick, Caithness

Old Pulteney distillery, Wick, Caithness

Old Pulteney distillery, Wick, Caithness

Old Pulteney distillery, Wick, Caithness

Old Pulteney distillery, Wick, Caithness

Laphroaig distillery, Islay. Repainting the letterings on the warehouse.

Laphroaig distillery, Islay. Repainting the letterings on the warehouse.

Kilchoman distillery, Islay. Relatively new distillery established on the farm.

Kilchoman distillery, Islay. Relatively new distillery established on the farm.

Bruichladdich distillery, Islay

Bruichladdich distillery, Islay

On the ferry to Islay

On the ferry to Islay

Brexit - Political Landscape

London_Parliament Hill_Before Brexit / After Brexit_31.1.2020

The land of what is now the United Kingdom (UK) has been located on island(s) for at least 8000 years. The city of London was founded as Londinium by the Romans nearly 2000 years ago in the Thames valley.

From long-term historical viewpoint, the so called Brexit (UK leaving political and economical institution – the European Union) is most likely a small blip of an event. However, this recent political exit has been process stretching over three and half years, culminating on 31.1.2020 at 11pm GMT when the UK symbolically left the EU. Nevertheless the political process still continues...

I walked up to Parliament Hill in Hampstead Heath to observe this event and take images of London skyline before the exit and after the exit.


Hampstead Heath – Leg of Mutton pond

Hampstead Heath in north-west London is an expansive area of woodland, open fields and fresh air. It contains 18 ponds that are scattered across the Heath. I have chosen one of these ponds and its surroundings to illustrate the ideas of seasonal changes, growth, decay and regeneration as part of a natural cycle.

First recorded mention of Heath comes in 986 when English king Æthelred II. granted one of his servants five hides of land (hide was an English unit of land measurement originally intended to represent the amount of land sufficient to support a household). Although the land had been in private hands for hundreds of years large parts of it have acted as “green lungs of the metropolis” and remained common land serving to public recreation or for livestock grazing.

The idea for ponds came in late 16th century during the reign of Henry VIII. The springs of Hampstead Heath were leased to William Paterson & Partners, who formed the Hampstead Water Company and built reservoirs which supplied water to London. These reservoirs later became bathing ponds. The area with its expansive vistas, natural and man-made beauty has always been popular with artists. Poets (e.g. John Keats), painters (John Constable), and writers (C.S.Lewis) all found inspiration here. When the Hampstead Junction railway opened in 1860 it brought many other people escaping city for roaming in near natural surroundings, especially at weekends (it is estimated that in 1865 up to 50,000 people visited Hampstead Heath at Easter). Later on it hosted bank holiday fairs, donkey rides with people fishing in the ponds or even ice skating in cold winters. To this day there are famous pubs on or next to Heath like for example Spaniards Inn (built in 1585) Old Bull and Bush (1730) or Garden Gate (1855) frequented by notable people of history.

The Leg of Mutton pond is a small body of water in West Heath named most likely for its shape. This pond was built in 1816 by damming of a chalybeate brook Brent (mineral spring water containing salts of iron). This work was commissioned as part of a relief plan to employ the poor after Napoleonic wars. West Heath and in particular The Leg of Mutton pond area was also identified as an important Mesolithic site. Excavations were being carried out here in 1976-1981 and again in 1984-1986. Myfanwy Stewart from Institute of Archaeology writes in the report Burnt stone in West Heath, Hampstead (PIA No.1 1990) that “low pH factor prevents the survival of bone. In the almost total absence of organic remains, burnt stone was the only recoverable material available in quantity for providing possible behavioural evidence to support spatial analysis of the 100,000 or more struck flakes that have now been found”. Due to ecotone created on the London clay and Bagshot sands Mesolithic people would have found here a favourable environment with supply of fresh water.

Today this area of woodland is populated by many more trees then when the Leg of Mutton pond was created. It is very popular with walkers any time of the year and in warmer months serves also as gay cruising place. Some people forage for blackberries at the end of summer as well. Wildfowl, seagull, dragonfly, kingfisher, grass snake and bat can be seen in and around the ponds.

More than two hundred years has passed since the creation of the pond and although it is man-made its look doesn’t betray it first hand. I have visited this spot countless times throughout this year and every time it may be slightly different due to different natural circumstances like growth, decay, weather and light. Changes in seasons are obvious guides I pay attention to on the way throughout the year; returning to this spot, I have created my landmark in time.

Hampstead Heath_London_The Leg of Mutton pond.jpg
Hampstead Heath_London_The Leg of Mutton pond.jpg
Hampstead Heath_London_The Leg of Mutton pond.jpg
Hampstead Heath_London_The Leg of Mutton pond.jpg

Tomas Bata Memorial - Zlín

When I recently came to my home town of Zlín for short family stay I could not help but to visit newly reconstructed modernist building dedicated to local entrepreneur that went global – Tomáš Baťa.

Tomáš Baťa (1876-1932) established his shoe making company with his brother Antonín and sister Anna in Zlín in 1894. Their initial capital at the time was about 800 Austrian gulden ($ 320) which they inherited from their mother Anna. With his ingenuity Baťa and his company transformed not only the town itself but also shoe making business in general. He became proponent of modern production methods that he reached through “Taylorism” - scientific management that analysed and synthesized workflows (named after American mechanical engineer Frederick Winslow Taylor). During his time as business man and later on as mayor of Zlín he expanded the town as he built not only shoe factory but also auxiliaries and new quarters for workers as well as much needed infrastructure. The architect responsible for this early expansion under Baťa was František Lýdie Gahura who studied sculpture before taking on architecture. Baťa and Gahura adopted ideas of garden city movement from English urbanist sir Ebenezer Howard. Zlín as a town with the factory in its midst then became prime example of unique functionalist town (notable buildings designed in this modernist style are for example Villa Tugendhat by Mies van der Rohe in Brno or Villa Müller by Adolf Loos in Prague).

Baťa’s company has expanded beyond the former Czechoslovakia. His factories in India, Kenya, Switzerland, the UK, Canada, USA, France and other countries were modelled on the successful functionalist design that had worked so well in his Zlín. Sadly, Baťa died prematurely in 1932 together with pilot Jindřich Brouček as they crashed in their plane on the way to Switzerland in dense fog. Architect Gahura was commissioned by local authority to design his memorial and its official opening was enacted on the first anniversary of Tomáš Baťa’s death. Gahura’s design for the memorial is based on his earlier developments of standardized structural systems with grid 6.15 m x 6.15 m which he used for designing factories and boarding schools in vicinity of the memorial. The materials chosen were concrete, steel and cathedral glass. The composition of the building is trying to express Tomáš Baťa’s core attributes like clarity, aspiration, simplicity, honesty and generosity. Gahura placed the plane Junkers F13 in which Baťa died inside the building. On the ground floor were busts of Tomáš, his brother Antonín (who died much earlier in 1908) and their mother Anna. There was a footwear exhibition displayed on the first floor. The second floor remained empty.

As the Communists came to power in coup in Czechoslovakia in 1948 they designated Baťa’s company a capitalist enemy and later nationalized it (Thomas Bata jnr. then developed the brand Bata from Canada). The Tomáš Baťa Memorial was transformed to art gallery and subsequently to a concert hall. However, with all this redevelopment and new additions the original building lost its genius loci.

When The Bohuslav Martinů Philharmonic Orchestra, previously housed in former Baťa’s Memorial, moved to a new building designed by Eva Jiřičná (AI Design) in 2011 it was possible to complete the project of restoring the Baťa’s Memorial to former glory. The architect for reconstruction became Petr Všetečka of Transat studio and he says that the main purpose of this building is to experience space, light, cessation of time as well as to induce calmness. The original exhibit of the Junkers F13 plane was lost in 50’s, thus the new model was commissioned by The Thomas Bata Foundation and built by Czech sport aircraft manufacturer TechProAviation. The model of the plane is supported by steel structure and has been made without the engine. It is the sole exhibit in new Baťa’s Memorial and it is a symbolic reminder of his life and death.

The new reconstruction had been managed really well and the spirit of simplicity with which the original architect Gahura designed this memorial returned again. Now even with some contemporary tinge.

Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republicjpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg
Tomas Bata Memorial_Zlin_Czech republic.jpg

Open House London 2019 - Heatherwick studio & Aga Khan Centre

This year, as part of the annual event Open House London, I chose to visit, among other buildings, Heatherwick studio and Aga Khan Centre. Both in Kings Cross and judging according to time spent queueing to get in, both very popular indeed.

Here is selection of pictures that I took on the day.


UK Pavilion - model concept, Shanghai World Expo 2010

UK Pavilion - model concept, Shanghai World Expo 2010

Acrylic rods with seeds

Acrylic rods with seeds

Heatherwick studio, London.jpg
Heatherwick studio, London.jpg
Seeds - courtesy of Heatherwick studio

Seeds - courtesy of Heatherwick studio

Acrylic rods

Acrylic rods

Olympic cauldron model concept

Olympic cauldron model concept

Heatherwick studio, London.jpg
Al Fayah Park model concept

Al Fayah Park model concept

Aga Khan Centre, Kings Cross, London

Aga Khan Centre, Kings Cross, London

Aga Khan Centre London.jpg
Garden of Light

Garden of Light

Terrace of Discovery

Terrace of Discovery

The Aga Khan Library

The Aga Khan Library

Garden of Tranquillity

Garden of Tranquillity

Atrium sculpture: Rhapsody in Four Colours

Atrium sculpture: Rhapsody in Four Colours

Garden of Life

Garden of Life

Tower Bridge, London

It has been 125 years since the famous Tower Bridge opened for traffic. This remarkable structure over the river Thames was officially inaugurated on 30 June 1894 by HRH Prince of Wales – the future King Edward VII.


Barge Lady Daphne built in Rochester in 1923 passes through the bridge downriver

Barge Lady Daphne built in Rochester in 1923 passes through the bridge downriver

In second half of the 19th century the congestion of the growing metropolis was very much apparent (the problem that prevails to this day). It was increasingly difficult and time-consuming for merchants conducting their business to travel on roads from one river bank to the other, especially in the area around Tower of London or Butler’s Wharf where the warehouses were located. The Special Bridge or Subway Committee was created in 1876 to find solutions to problem and subsequently initiated public competition to design new river crossing. Over 50 designs plans were submitted for consideration. However, none was chosen at the time as different options (like for example digging tunnel) were being explored. Disagreements regarding design continued to boil until 1884 when design by architect Horace Jones and John Wolfe Barry was chosen as a winning one by the Committee whose chairman was also architect Jones himself. A year later the Royal Assent was granted to build the bridge.

After architect’s death in 1887, engineer John Wolfe Barry was put in charge of construction and reworked the design for it to work as bascule bridge. He also chose Jones’s assistant, George Stevenson to help him develop cladding which was put around structural steel framework inside the two towers that are connected by walkways. These walkways were added for pedestrians who did not want to wait around when the bridge was raised. In 1910 these walkways closed for lack of use as pedestrians preferred waiting by the bridge rather than carrying their loads up and down using stairs inside these towers.

After expensive restoration project in 1982 these walkways are once again accessible to paying members of public as part of the Tower Bridge Experience. At times it’s been also possible to glimpse raising of the bascules through the glass floors (as I have when I visited the walkways) which were recently added on the east and west walkways.

The bridge was originally painted in brown colour but then in 1977 in order to celebrate the Queen’s Silver Jubilee it was painted in red, white and blue. And again, after the restoration (in 1982) it was repainted in blue and white and these colours grace the bridge since. Approximately about 40,000 people are crossing the bridge in vehicles and on foot every day but even now the ships still have the right of way if their captains give at least 24 hours notice.

When I was celebrating New Year’s Eve on the South Bank near Tower Bridge in 1999, myself, my friend Vladimir and the huge crowds were witnessing extensive firework display above the bridge for the last time. Since the new millennium, the celebration has moved up the river (to another steel structure of London Eye). But the design and engineering of this iconic bridge still continues to fascinate new generations.

Earlier design of Tower Bridge

Earlier design of Tower Bridge

Tide: The story behind the photograph

Moonlight at St John‘s Point, Caithness, Scotland

St John‘s Point is a headland located on the north coast of mainland Scotland. Visible from this point is treacherous Merry Men of Mey – a tidal race which is formed by the rocks that extend across the Pentland Firth, channel separating the Scottish mainland and Orkney Islands. One of the fastest tidal currents in the world is the strongest on the ebb tide when the current flows east to west. Its speed can reach up to 11 knots (about 20km per hour). The tide is caused by combined effects of gravitational forces of the Moon and the Sun and the rotation of the Earth.




Tide is a phenomenon to watch out for anywhere in the world. Here, in Pentland Firth – the strait that separates mainland Scotland from Orkney Islands – tide is especially strong. In these perilous waters there are number of tidal races that make navigation difficult, even in calm conditions.

I chose to photograph at St John‘s Point for number of reasons. Topographically this place looks interesting even on a map. The promontory with certain imagination resembles an open hand with its rocky „fingers“ dousing the sea. The cliffs not as steep as in neighbouring Dunnet Head are also more accessible. Another reason for visit has been continuation of my photographic practice that deals with landscape and its use as well as man‘s impact upon it.

Several years ago I travelled to St David‘s Head in Wales to photograph location between Welsh mainland and Ramsey Island. This place (Ramsey sound) was chosen for an engineering research and development experiment when an underwater turbine was submerged in the sea in order to generate renewable energy in this channel known for its strong tidal currents. (The generating energy part of this project however, lasted only three months as the active sonar to monitor impact upon marine mammals developed fault and the turbine could not operate within its licence without this equipment being active; then the company behind this project went into administration)

Here, in the north of Scotland, between the Scottish mainland and the Island of Stroma is however an active tidal stream project. It is called MeyGen, also known as Project Stroma and it is being built by SIMEC Atlantis Energy. Topography of this location (similar to St David‘s Head), with its natural channel, was a significant factor for the placement of turbines due to high flows, medium water depth and proximity to mainland where the onshore power conversion unit building is located. The first phase of this project has been implemented and that meant the deployment of four 1.5 MW turbines. They will act as a precursor for later development of the whole tidal array in the subsea area. There are several phases for the whole project still to be completed.

Due to strength of tides and currents around Orkney Islands it is therefore not surprising that the European Marine Energy Centre (EMEC) based itself on these islands. They provide accredited open-sea testing facility to developers of both wave and tidal energy technologies. „We have been in a position recently where tidal turbines that have been on site, have been producing 7% of Orkney electricity, week in week out.....that is unique at the moment; what we have got to do is to make it a standard“, said Neil Kermode, managing director of EMEC in BBC ALBA documentary An Làn/Tide (A‘beartachadh an Lain/Harnessing the tide episode).

Getting to St John‘s Point wasn‘t difficult. Just a bit of walking, mainly downhill. There was a path among common gorse, a coconut-smelling thorny shrub with its yellow flowers that local people call whin bush. The sign at the end of this large overgrown area read: „This is a common land. There are sheep here on pasture. Please keep your dog on leash.“ The sheep were all around and in this time of the year grazing with its lambs. The path led me across a turfed outcrop which I later found out was a place where St John‘s chapel had stood long time ago. In 1919 John Nicolson discovered a stone slab during excavation within remains of a building. This slab, with finely incised outline of a cross, has been dated to 7th or 8th century.


St John’s Point - view towards Orkney Islands

St John’s Point - view towards Orkney Islands

St John’s Point - view towards Island of Stroma

St John’s Point - view towards Island of Stroma

What a view! I pitch my tent on the tip of the promontory. What a view! On the eastern side is uninhabited island of Stroma. On the northern side is Orcadian island of Hoy. And on the western side is elongated headland of Dunnet Head – the northernmost point of mainland Scotland. Everywhere else is the sea and the sky. The sun is shining and south-easterly wind blows steadily. Kittiwakes are flying in the air and the top of the sea stack called Man of Mey is a nest for oystercatcher. I patiently scan the sea to glimpse any signs of humpback whales, minke whales or orcas who come to Pentland Firth in late May on an annual passage through it. It is in vain though as I am too early for this extraordinary wildlife procession. I gaze long at the sea anyway. The Pentland Firth is a busy shipping channel. Tide is coming in and then going out leaving rocks of Men of Mey partially bare.

Before the evening comes, in full sunshine, I dip in the very cold sea breaking on the disintegrating jetty in one of the geos (small fjord or gully). This jetty was used in the recent past by local fishermen to land herrings, abundant fish stock in the late 19th and early 20th century.

When the sun comes down on the north-west horizon it becomes considerably colder. Different flock of small birds flutter together in the air. With darkness descending, one by one, the lighthouses in the whole area come alive. Their flashing light in frequent intervals serves for navigational aid to warn the boats and ships of dangerous areas. The Dunnet Head lighthouse (built 1831) on the mainland was designed by Robert Stevenson (1772-1850) whose descendants later designed most of Scotland‘s lighthouses. The one opposite me in the distance on Island of Hoy peninsula named South Walls is Cantick Head lighthouse (Thomas & David Stevenson, 1858) and there is another one on the northern tip of Island of Stroma simply called Stroma lighthouse (David A & Charles Stevenson, 1896) which is positioned very close to Swilkie Point – the most dangerous whirlpool in the Pentland Firth where four or sometimes five contrary tides meet. Although Robert Louis Stevenson did not become lighthouse engineer he was very much involved with the sea. He became novelist, poet and travel writer; author of notable works such as Treasure Island (1883) or The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde (1886). He must have visited this place at St John‘s Point as he also wrote a short story called The Merry Men inspired by the infamous rocks and the tidal race (the collection of short stories The Merry Men and Other Tales and Fables, 1887).

Even though there are still buildings visible on the Stroma island, no one lives there anymore. In 1901 it still had population of 375 people. This tiny island was inhabited until 1962 when most people left. The last family, the lighthouse keepers however, abandoned it in 1997 as the Stroma lighthouse was converted to automatic operation, similarly like other lighthouses at the time.


Scotland_IMG_7216_DP.jpg
Scotland_IMG_7218_DP.jpg

The night is quiet. The tide had ebbed away and I shelter on the cliffs below my tent, making long exposure. Night is gently illuminated by the Moon. Being in the north in late spring means that the nights are short. It is only 2am but the clouds already display dawn colours of slowly rising sun. It has been a magical night and the light in north-east signifies it would also be a wonderful day ahead.


St David’s head (Wales) - view towards Ramsey Island

St David’s head (Wales) - view towards Ramsey Island

Landscape of Prehistoric Sites

It was still dark night when I was approaching on foot to one of the most famous prehistoric monument in the world. Traffic consisting mainly of lorries on the road A303 which passes in close proximity to the site was already relentless. Ahead I could make up silhouette of stone circle and behind it a new day was gradually coming up in the eastern sky. When I reached the fenced monument I contemplated on morning mist hovering in the fields below. The mist was resembling translucent blanket slowly changing form and position to a point of disappearing completely and revealing scenery in greater detail.

Stonehenge, Wiltshire

I was not alone here. In my view lonely and freezing security guard was moving in circles around the monument. At least in my mind, walking in his boots in these times of day, I could imagine that the surrounding landscape must present him with different moods and lighting conditions every single day. When first rays of rising sun touched Stonehenge, a large group of people suddenly appeared and quickly dispersed on the site. They came to enjoy rare one hour experience of being here; an experience enabled by English Heritage (the charitable organization responsible for looking after this monument and other sites in England). A special ticket which they had to purchase, double the normal price set to view the monument, entitled them to wander around and within the stone circle that is usually out of bounds to ordinary visitors who are only permitted to a designated pathway well off the stone structure.

Time was up for these visitants. Bathing in sunshine the group went back to the minibuses they boarded at nearby Visitor centre that largely facilitates access to Stonehenge. But there is so much more to explore around here as this landscape is saturated by various other sites concealed within it and connected to different eras of human habitation in this area. Stonehenge is however, at the very top of hierarchy among British prehistoric sites mainly for its would-be completeness, monumentality and variety of unearthed stories attached to this site which began as an earthwork enclosure on Salisbury plain about 3000 BCE.

There are many more prehistoric sites spread around the whole British Isles. In fact the countryside is dotted by standing stones, tombs, stone circles, dolmens, barrows, mounds or forts. These are highly interesting to archaeologists or historians whose perspectives and interpretations get updated with each and every discovery including scientific and technological advances and their subsequent application for new research that as a result enable us to better understand our history and to an extent our future as well. Many people however, visit these sites for various other purposes including reenacting ancient rites, noting of solstices and equinoxes, keeping up with their roots and identities or simple curiosity.

I myself slept within a stone circle near megalithic tomb in Ireland and in the second half of night got soaked up by rain for daring so. In Pembrokeshire in Wales, I walked in the Preseli hills, an area designated by geologist Herbert Henry Thomas in 1923 as a source of bluestones (dolerite) which are placed in the inner circle of Stonehenge. And I am certainly not alone in seeking unique experiences in prehistoric landscapes. Recently in Avebury, its rather large stone circle drawn in many people during first spring day full of sunshine. However, all of our wanderings and appreciations of spirit of the place are possible only for generations of custodians taking care of these landscapes and monuments throughout the ages - be it farmers, clergy and other enlightened people or institutions of present-day.

Traveling to different sites on British isles has enabled me to view in context significant era of human development and acknowledge extraordinary effort of our predecessors who, perhaps unintentionally, left behind a legacy in stonework which as raw rock was created by geological processes even deeper in time.

Preseli hills, Pembrokeshire

Preseli hills, Pembrokeshire

Stonehenge visitor centre, Wiltshire

Stonehenge visitor centre, Wiltshire

Pentre Ifan, Pembrokeshire

Pentre Ifan, Pembrokeshire

Avebury stone circle (fragment), Wiltshire

Avebury stone circle (fragment), Wiltshire

Avebury stone circle (fragments), Wiltshire

Avebury stone circle (fragments), Wiltshire

The Longstones, Beckhampton Avenue near Avebury, Wiltshire

The Longstones, Beckhampton Avenue near Avebury, Wiltshire

West Kennet Long Barrow, Wiltshire

West Kennet Long Barrow, Wiltshire

Zennor Quoit, Cornwall

Zennor Quoit, Cornwall

Chun Quoit, Cornwall

Chun Quoit, Cornwall

Castlerigg stone circle, Lake District

Castlerigg stone circle, Lake District

Stonehenge, Wiltshire